"QUANTUM SHOT" #573
Link
- article by
Akka Ballenger Constantin
We welcome our guest travel writer
Akka Ballenger Constantin
(also a photographer with a gallery on
National Geographic). She spent seven years sailing around the world, gathering weird and
wonderful material, part of which she shares with us today:
The Unknown Brazil: Boca de Valeria, Manaus, Santarem & Parintinis.
When in Rome, do like the Romans - they say…but what about Brazil? Here
are some notes that may help you find places not (too often) mentioned in
the travel guides:
A couple of dancers in Santarem, Boi Bumba Festival
Surely enough, your typical tourist will linger on the
Ipanema Beach, or take active part in the Rio de Janeiro’s
Carnaval…that is if you can do the Samba like the locals, or if you
really want to embarrass yourself publicly, by exposing your elephantine
grace. A conscientious tourist will have at least a shot of himself
underneath O Cristo Redentor, the famous statue of Christ the
Redeemer located on the top of the Corcovado Mountain. A shot together
with the gorgeous dancers, on the Sambodromo. One on the beautiful
beaches of Santa Catarina…Or perhaps a shot of the lively, rocky nights in
Armação dos Búzios, catching up with the richest of the riches…
I, on the other hand have none of the above. I am a fortuitous tourist and
a natural born traveler. While sailing, my itinerary is always imposed on
me, but sometimes it’s for the best. So, what can I tell you about Brazil?
Something you haven’t already seen; something you don’t already know?
Encontro das Águas - the improbable junction of the waters
Sailing the Amazon River into Manaus, we were mesmerised by what the
locals call "Encontro das Águas" (the meeting of waters). The
junction of
Rio Negro and
Rio Solimões is a very unique sight. For 6 km, the 2 rivers are running
along, without mixing. In more profane but visual terms, think
coffee flowing alongside cappuccino, without being able to mix it.
There is a simple explanation for what we took for a small miracle: Rio
Negro flows at 2 km per hour at a temperature of 22°C, while the Rio
Solimões flows between 4 to 6 km per hour at temperature of 28°C. These
differences between speed, temperature and density of the two waters are
the main cause of this phenomenon.
Evening time: view from the Command Bridge, before entering Manaus.
Boca de Valeria
Leaving Manaus, we keep sailing on the Amazon River. Our next stop: Boca
de Valeria: a very small, colourful village, populated by some 60-70
ribeirrinhos.
Several cruiseship companies have placed this little village on their
itinerary. Located at the "mouth" of the Valeria River, the village offers
an encounter of two different cultures.
A cruise ship arrival is a great event for the small village located on
the mouth of Valeria River. The friendly villagers are always happy to
welcome all visitors, eager to make contact and get news from foreign
lands.
Because of the small space, the visitors are literally poking into the
river people’s lives. But they look happy enough to share with us their
ways of life: we are being shown their schools, the local market and even
the way their houses are made.
Typical houses
They seem to understand that visits like these sustain the little trade
they are able to make by selling souvenirs and exquisite crafts. There are
very few inhabitants and they are all very proud of their amazonian
heritage. Although modern living is slowly making its way through, they
dress up with traditional costumes.
Amazonian Family
The children however are not yet versed in the art of compromise. Although
they have obediently donned up their outfits, their eyes say more than
words.
They are not used being on display for the large audience and they all
look like they would be happier playing, rather than demonstrating their
skills. One particular girl attracted the crowds with her beautiful,
magnetic eyes. She was demonstrating archery, but her eyes were throwing
the real darts.
Little Amazonian Warrior:
In Boca de Valeria, boats are the equivalent of cars in a busy city: the
only way of getting around:
Spectacular Boi-Bumbá Festival
Parintins is located on
Tupinambarana
island in the Amazon River. Its name will probably tell you nothing, but
Parintins is very famous for a popular
folklore festival. Called
Boi-Bumbá, the
Parintins festival is held each year on the month of June. It is an
incredible experience for the audience: the artistic duel of the 2 teams,
Boi Caprichoso and Boi Garantido.
Boi is the Portuguese word for ox and it is the main character of
the story. Each of the teams is presenting the same story in their own
fashion: the story of Pai Francisco, who killed one of his Master’s ox,
because Mae Catirina (his pregnant wife) was longing to eat beef tongue.
Unfortunately, the ox he has killed was the master’s favourite and Pai
Francisco is sent to jail, after a priest and a doctor failed to revive
the ox. However, the story has a happy ending and thanks to the ritual
performed by a pajé (pa-zhe, shaman), the ox is brought back to
life. Pai Francisco is forgiven and everything ends in a party that
celebrates the Boi's life.
Both teams, Caprichoso and Garantido use amazing resources in unfolding
the story: apart the musical and theatrical experience, the viewer will be
amazed by the grand scale of this artistic confrontation: parade floats,
giant puppets, allegoric dances & stories.
The "Bumbódramo" is always at its full capacity during this
3-nights event. 35,000 people are following the competition, encouraging &
cheering for their favourite team. During each night, the 2 teams are
attempting in outdoing each other through their performance incorporating
Amazonian folklore, with its exquisite costumes and flamboyant dances.
(all images copyright
Akka Ballenger Constantin)
CONTINUE TO "SPECTACULAR ECUADOR"! ->
Category:
Travel,Photography
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4 Comments:
Wow, I actually saw the meeting of the waters! We traveled up the Rio Negro from Manaus, though, so we didn't get to see most of the cool stuff you did, but it was still awesome... If you ever go back, I would recommend trying to see the "fish festival." I don't remember much about it as I was maybe nine years old at the time, only that people came from miles around to watch performers dance in spectacular fish costumes in a concrete soccer stadium, and it was amazing. to give you an idea of the size of the celebration, the small village it was held in was out of beer for a full week.
A correction: It's ribeirinhos.
I think so that typical costumes of Boca de Valeria is about the Parintins costumes not from the indians of Amazonia or it's just for the foreigners
I'm from Manaus, and this is one of the wonders of the city which is one of the city's in Brazil that's going to be the World Cup Soccer Championship. If you don't know it, come and visit!
Well...I live in Manaus also...and I gotta tell you...
We ain't too proud of having Parintins folklore festival this close...
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